Halfsteak

It has been fascinating to watch how the New York restaurant scene has reacted to the economic cataclysm. Some restaurants have closed. Others are offering discounted menus, discounted wine, new bar menus, or off-hours discounts. Among the most aggressive restaurateurs in this regard has been Tom Colicchio, Top Chef master and head of the Craft family. The flagship Craft itself has pioneered Frugal Fridays, a $10 a plate occasional restaurant in Craft's private dining room. And Craftsteak, Colicchio's extortionately expensive steak restaurant, has started Halfsteak, which we visited last night.

The concept is straightforward. Half portions of Craftsteak food for half price. The headliner? A half portion (6 oz) of Craftsteak's signature dry aged bone-in steak with fries for $14.50, supplemented by half pints of local beer ($3.50) and some funky appetizers (fried tripe?). We tried the fried oysters with smoked coleslaw, a couple of drinks (an excellent dark wheat beer and a half cocktail with lime) and a dessert cupcake, along with two steaks. Good news first - the steak and drinks are worth the trip to the dark recesses of 10th avenue. It's terrific meat, properly cooked, with excellent fries. Not to mention that someone is finally serving me the perfect portion of steak - I don't want a 16 oz he-man cut.

The service and the appetizers and dessert? Well, one was bad, and the others didn't add anything to our experience (I don't like cupcakes). But my qualms about the waiters, at least, were mollified a little by being handed a slice of coffee cake "for breakfast" on the way out, which I've gobbled this morning.

The halfsteak is a great, great, value. Enjoy it while it lasts.