My fiancee and I were having a debate recently after having been served some truly wretched food of a cuisine with which we were familiar, but the preparer was not (and had obviously stretched to accomodate us).
My view is that while one cannot expect authenticity in such a circumstance, taste is a universal attribute, and thus if the chef who made the food were talented, he would have known that the food was not good, even if he did not know what it was supposed to taste like. In other words - I have some confidence in my palate, if not my cooking skill. If asked to produce, say, Ethiopian food, I suspect I would produce inauthentic but tasty food, and if I erred and produced inauthentic and unappealing food, I would have noticed.
My fiancee is somewhat more inclined to the view that the badness of food made by people unpracticed in a cuisine is excusable. I don't want to put words in her mouth (and I'm sure I will be chastised if I am mischaracterizing her views), but I think her bottom line is - "maybe that chef's normal food is actually good, and his efforts to accomodate us hamstrung the man".
All this, of course, circles delicately around the cultural relativist question of whether food can be poorly done or can only be differently done. Obviously, I cling to the former position. And, of course, I once got myself in hot water with apparently the entire readership of another blog when I declared that I didn't understand people who claimed they didn't like foods.
4/03/2009
4/01/2009
Xai Xai
We visited the South African wine bar Xai Xai last night, after meeting with yet another wedding vendor (as a side note, New York is an amazing place - South African wine bar?). I had wanted us to visit for a while now, as we both like pinotage, however much real wine afficianados might snicker, and I was interested to see what kind of food emerged from their kitchen.
We shared a 250 ml pour of Bellevue Tumara 2004 Pinotage from the Stellenbosch valley, which had all the fruity heft of the typical pinotage, and which we enjoyed very much. We weren't all that hungry, so we went light on the very expensive food, but did enjoy our plate of puff pastries (curried vegetables, chicken, sausage and spinach, with a tasty mango chutney) and smoked salmon with polenta. Service was a little bit clunky, but the room was pleasantly lit and well decorated. And, most importantly, Xai Xai is about a block from my office.
Bottom line: Excellent wine. Pleasant space. But everything should be 25% cheaper.
We shared a 250 ml pour of Bellevue Tumara 2004 Pinotage from the Stellenbosch valley, which had all the fruity heft of the typical pinotage, and which we enjoyed very much. We weren't all that hungry, so we went light on the very expensive food, but did enjoy our plate of puff pastries (curried vegetables, chicken, sausage and spinach, with a tasty mango chutney) and smoked salmon with polenta. Service was a little bit clunky, but the room was pleasantly lit and well decorated. And, most importantly, Xai Xai is about a block from my office.
Bottom line: Excellent wine. Pleasant space. But everything should be 25% cheaper.
3/30/2009
Grandma Pizza
I love the purity of real Italian pizza. Nothing but flour, yeast, salt and water, slid into a flaming hot oven, off a peel slick with cornmeal, onto a pizza stone to sizzle to perfection in just a couple of minutes. Buffalo mozzarella, if possible. A basil leaf or two, simple tomato sauce, and nothing else.
But that's not pizza here in Queens. In Queens, the kings of the pizza scene (is anything better than Gino's of Howard Beach?) make a different pie, a rustic pie, a pie known around here as the "Grandma". An olive oil, flour, yeast and salt dough, square, baked in a pan with more olive oil, with cheese layed out to be cut into hearty squares. It appeals to me because my grandma also made rustic versions of things in pans. Souh bourek, or cheese pie in a pan rather than in individual packages. Seene kofte - layers of bourghoul and lamb crust sandwiching fried ground meat rather than individual kofte.
I suppose this is called a sicilian elsewhere, but a Grandma is a thinnish pie, very unlike the thick wedges that are sicilians elsewhere. The tomato sauce is always extremely garlicky. The cheese is usually polly-o. And when you want this pizza, only this pizza will do.
Here are some pictures at my effort last night. I used fresh mozzarella because I prefer it, but otherwise this is a very simple olive oil heavy dough, spread in a sheet pan and baked. The sauce is just crushed san marzana tomatoes with lots of garlic.
But that's not pizza here in Queens. In Queens, the kings of the pizza scene (is anything better than Gino's of Howard Beach?) make a different pie, a rustic pie, a pie known around here as the "Grandma". An olive oil, flour, yeast and salt dough, square, baked in a pan with more olive oil, with cheese layed out to be cut into hearty squares. It appeals to me because my grandma also made rustic versions of things in pans. Souh bourek, or cheese pie in a pan rather than in individual packages. Seene kofte - layers of bourghoul and lamb crust sandwiching fried ground meat rather than individual kofte.
I suppose this is called a sicilian elsewhere, but a Grandma is a thinnish pie, very unlike the thick wedges that are sicilians elsewhere. The tomato sauce is always extremely garlicky. The cheese is usually polly-o. And when you want this pizza, only this pizza will do.
Here are some pictures at my effort last night. I used fresh mozzarella because I prefer it, but otherwise this is a very simple olive oil heavy dough, spread in a sheet pan and baked. The sauce is just crushed san marzana tomatoes with lots of garlic.
3/29/2009
Leftover choux
What to do with leftover choux pastry? Obviously, best funnel cake* ever.
* Where I grew up, at least, funnel cake is a fried dough poured through a funnel into hot oil. I figured that pate a choux piped into oil would be just as good. It was.
* Where I grew up, at least, funnel cake is a fried dough poured through a funnel into hot oil. I figured that pate a choux piped into oil would be just as good. It was.UPDATE: Do I really need to note that home-made funnel cake should only be eaten piping hot, off a kitchen towel, with another funnel cake still sizzling in oil? Consider that noted.
Baking blogging
I've been abandoned for some womanly get-togethers today. My only response is eclairs. Here they are cooling right this minute on a rack, to be filled with creme anglaise and dipped in bittersweet lindt chocolate later.
3/27/2009
A michelangelo on 5th
I was recently lucky enough to see this Michelangelo in a stately home here in New York. It was a truly rare treat, though someone else with me raised an interesting question - do modern sculptors have the ability to make such a thing, or has that particular knowledge been lost?
3/24/2009
A half success
So I'm not going to claim that these lemon-chocolate macarons (adapted from Aran's recipe) were the biggest success on the planet. Long story short, the meringue mixture was initially too stiff, I mixed it more, and then it got too loose, and the macarons spread on me when I piped them. Result? Oblong, clumsy looking macarons.
However, the flavor and texture of the things was excellent, and I love the combination of lemon and chocolate. I will try these again and improve.
n.b., the chocolate filling was just lindt bittersweet chocolate mixed with heavy cream - i.e., ganache.
However, the flavor and texture of the things was excellent, and I love the combination of lemon and chocolate. I will try these again and improve.
n.b., the chocolate filling was just lindt bittersweet chocolate mixed with heavy cream - i.e., ganache.
Adventures in Meat cookery
I try not to eat too much meat during the week so that I can splurge over the weekend. This week's such splurge was a cut of dry-aged, prime, beef that I bought from Astoria's own Christos Steakhouse. Rather than cook the steak the way most people recommend (screaming hot pan, massive sear), which creates so much smoke as to be unappetizing at home, I've begun experimenting with the egullet, Alain Ducasse home method demonstrated here.
I still think I did not rest the steak quite enough to fully redistribute the juices around the meat (you're supposed to rest it for 15 minutes, but I got impatient), and did not use the recommended butter. Still, the method produces a delicious, crusty, steak.
I still think I did not rest the steak quite enough to fully redistribute the juices around the meat (you're supposed to rest it for 15 minutes, but I got impatient), and did not use the recommended butter. Still, the method produces a delicious, crusty, steak.
UPDATE: We enjoyed a bottle of Nederburg Shiraz with this steak. It is a simple, pleasing, South African wine with some good flavors, and has the great advantage of costing $9.
Olive-oil poached escolar with wine sauce
Observant readers will recognize this recipe from Top Chef, when Carla was asked to replicate Eric Ripert's recipe. My effort is not quite as beautiful (my potato chips need work!) but the escolar was extraordinarily good. My technique was simply to warm a pot of olive oil to about 130, add the fish, and let it poach without even simmering for about 8 minutes.
Important note: Escolar is said to have Olestra like effects on your, well, intestines. Keep consumption under 3 or 4 ounces to be safe.
Important note: Escolar is said to have Olestra like effects on your, well, intestines. Keep consumption under 3 or 4 ounces to be safe.
3/19/2009
Kindle
I've been skeptical of the Amazon Kindle, and so haven't bought one, but did download the Kindle application for my iphone. While I'm not totally convinced about the grey screen of the real Kindle, being able to have entire books show up on your phone instantaneously for $9.99 is totally revolutionary. Just unbelievable.
In the reading queue now is Peter Singer's The Life You can Save, and Liaquat Ahamed's Lords of Finance.
In the reading queue now is Peter Singer's The Life You can Save, and Liaquat Ahamed's Lords of Finance.
3/18/2009
What I understand that caterers haven't
The New York restaurant scene is the product of an unsustainable bubble. I am working to educate them.
Mesa Grill revisited
Last night we returned to Mesa Grill for my fiancee's birthday, which happens to be where we had our first, halting, brunch date a little more than two years ago. I blogged the meal, then, but not the date, though the latter had the more profound effect on my life to be sure.
The tuna tartare is still good. The margaritas are good. My pork loin, a perfect medium, was delicious with a sharp tang of spice in its bourbon and ancho chile sauce, and her red snapper was almost as good. Simply, Mesa Grill is a successful, long lasting restaurant that executes properly. As the New York Times observes, though, it's hard for a restaurant to maintain a spirit of inventiveness when its paradigm has been appropriated by Chili's (Bobby Flay is thought to be one of the main progenitors of the chipotle as it relates to modern American food). But I don't see why that's such a big problem. The food is good. The place has a good vibe. The drinks are strong.
We enjoyed our meal and basked in the funny, awkward memories of two people getting to know each other for the first time.
The tuna tartare is still good. The margaritas are good. My pork loin, a perfect medium, was delicious with a sharp tang of spice in its bourbon and ancho chile sauce, and her red snapper was almost as good. Simply, Mesa Grill is a successful, long lasting restaurant that executes properly. As the New York Times observes, though, it's hard for a restaurant to maintain a spirit of inventiveness when its paradigm has been appropriated by Chili's (Bobby Flay is thought to be one of the main progenitors of the chipotle as it relates to modern American food). But I don't see why that's such a big problem. The food is good. The place has a good vibe. The drinks are strong.
We enjoyed our meal and basked in the funny, awkward memories of two people getting to know each other for the first time.
3/17/2009
North Korean Pizza
Courtesy of Marginal Revolution, I see that North Korea is importing "high-quality Italian wheat, flour, butter and cheese" to make their first pizzas.
As someone over at MR pointed out, I would like to know what exactly they are planning to do with the butter.
As someone over at MR pointed out, I would like to know what exactly they are planning to do with the butter.
Salad dressing
I would obviously be missing a great story if I neglected to comment on United States v. Farinella. (opinion here), a recent case out of the 7th Circuit Court of Appeals reversing the conviction of a salad dressing dealer. Apparently, Mr. Farinella had been prosecuted for buying leftover salad dressing from a middleman, changing the "best by" date, and then selling the dressing to so-called "dollar stores". The problem for the government was that there is no regulation, no statute, no law, not even an interpretation, a web page, or informal advice from the FDA, to suggest that either establishing or changing a "best by" date was either illegal or required. The 7th Circuit panel, per Judge Posner, was not amused. "Since we are directing an acquittal on all counts", said the court, "the sentencing issues are academic, and we do not address them, beyond expressing our surprise that the government would complain about the leniency of a sentence for a crime it had failed to prove".
I listened to the oral argument this morning. Judge Posner was, if anything, more disparaging of the government's case at argument than in his written opinion. My favorite excerpt (I am transcribing, so this may not be accurate) follows:
Posner: What if this thing came with a label that said "delicious salad dressing. And suppose Farinella covered it over with a label that said "the most delicious salad dressing in history". Is that misbranding?
Government: No, I don't think so.
Posner: Why not? . . . What if in fact you get a bunch of witnesses who say, "most delicious? This is mediocre". "This is not delicious. . . . Did you go out and taste all the salad dressings before you put this label on?"
EDIT: The second interesting issue in this case is that the federal prosecutor was reprimanded for making various improper statements to the jury, including insinuating that there was something physically wrong with the salad dressing (it was shelf stable dressing with no expiration date). Indeed, the prosecutor told that jury that if what the defendant did was "business as usual for the food industry, I suggest we stop going to the store right now and start growing our own food". Posner is obviously right about the various legal issues, and I have nothing to add to them, but I find the prosecutor's cod-locavorism very funny.
I listened to the oral argument this morning. Judge Posner was, if anything, more disparaging of the government's case at argument than in his written opinion. My favorite excerpt (I am transcribing, so this may not be accurate) follows:
Posner: What if this thing came with a label that said "delicious salad dressing. And suppose Farinella covered it over with a label that said "the most delicious salad dressing in history". Is that misbranding?
Government: No, I don't think so.
Posner: Why not? . . . What if in fact you get a bunch of witnesses who say, "most delicious? This is mediocre". "This is not delicious. . . . Did you go out and taste all the salad dressings before you put this label on?"
EDIT: The second interesting issue in this case is that the federal prosecutor was reprimanded for making various improper statements to the jury, including insinuating that there was something physically wrong with the salad dressing (it was shelf stable dressing with no expiration date). Indeed, the prosecutor told that jury that if what the defendant did was "business as usual for the food industry, I suggest we stop going to the store right now and start growing our own food". Posner is obviously right about the various legal issues, and I have nothing to add to them, but I find the prosecutor's cod-locavorism very funny.
3/16/2009
Lamb and okra
Over the weekend I had a hankering for lamb and okra, independently. While we'd normally make okra with chunks of fatty lamb simmering inside the tomato sauce, I decided that I'd rather have chops, so I marinated the meat in lemon and oil, dipped the edges in zataar, and broiled. The okra are turkish baby okras, from a jar (the best kind), washed to remove much of the slime.
3/15/2009
Financiers Again
I made financiers again from Aran's recipe, this time to take to some friends as a gift for inviting us over. I made them smaller this time and cooked them more, which definitely helped give me some of the extra flavor I thought was missing last time, but I'm still a little puzzled that I'm not getting the almost marizpan like mouth feel I'd expect. Some of them tasted almost as if they were little, intensely almondy, muffins, which isn't quite right. I'll have to compare other recipes and see if perhaps there's some element I'm missing.
3/13/2009
Cabinet Secretary
I just noticed this article about staffing problems at our Department of Treasury, which includes a complaint from a somewhat vaguely described British official, Gus O'Donnell:
"Gus O'Donnell, Cabinet Secretary for the British government, was quoted this week in British news reports saying it has been "unbelievably difficult" to talk to people at the U.S. Treasury: 'There is nobody there.' "
It bothers me when newspapers quote people without bothering to explain why they're important enough to listen to. In this case, we might as well be told that Gus O'Donnell is the grand olephaunt for the British government, for all the indication the article gives us that O'Donnell is in fact the head of the extremely powerful British civil service. If he's complaining, it's very unlikely to be nonsense.
"Gus O'Donnell, Cabinet Secretary for the British government, was quoted this week in British news reports saying it has been "unbelievably difficult" to talk to people at the U.S. Treasury: 'There is nobody there.' "
It bothers me when newspapers quote people without bothering to explain why they're important enough to listen to. In this case, we might as well be told that Gus O'Donnell is the grand olephaunt for the British government, for all the indication the article gives us that O'Donnell is in fact the head of the extremely powerful British civil service. If he's complaining, it's very unlikely to be nonsense.
Thoughts elsewhere
I'm linking to a post of mine on egullet, which summarizes my current thinking on midtown "coffee and a doughnut" style breakfasts (my favorite breakfast, just beating out egg and potato).
Text of the post is below:
A few of my favorite coffee and something sweet breakfasts: An espresso and an apricot filled cornetto at Zibetto (italian espresso) on 56th and 6th (no seats) (or, even, get your croissant or pastry at Bouchon in Time Warner and run it over to Zibetto for the coffee). Pain au chocolat and cafe au lait at La Bergamote (19th and 9th, and 52nd and 10th). The "country breakfast" at Amy's Bread (I'm not a huge Amy's fan, but I love the combination of biscuits and jam) (multiple locations). Cream (not raspberry) bomboloni at Sullivan Street Bakery.
I'm sure someone will eventually mention Artichoke for a slice of pizza. As for other lunches, you can make a bit of a study of the burger renaissance, if that's your thing. In midtown, there's Burger Joint, Beacon, 5 Napkin Burger, City Burger.
Text of the post is below:
A few of my favorite coffee and something sweet breakfasts: An espresso and an apricot filled cornetto at Zibetto (italian espresso) on 56th and 6th (no seats) (or, even, get your croissant or pastry at Bouchon in Time Warner and run it over to Zibetto for the coffee). Pain au chocolat and cafe au lait at La Bergamote (19th and 9th, and 52nd and 10th). The "country breakfast" at Amy's Bread (I'm not a huge Amy's fan, but I love the combination of biscuits and jam) (multiple locations). Cream (not raspberry) bomboloni at Sullivan Street Bakery.
I'm sure someone will eventually mention Artichoke for a slice of pizza. As for other lunches, you can make a bit of a study of the burger renaissance, if that's your thing. In midtown, there's Burger Joint, Beacon, 5 Napkin Burger, City Burger.
3/12/2009
What I want to cook
This blog is (now) mostly for my own amusement and thoughts, though I appreciate every page view. I use it to remember where and what I've eaten, and what I'm thinking about on any particular day. It unites the last five or six years for me, along with Crescat Sententia and my original Waddling Thunder.
Anyway, I've been thinking about how to make it more useful. My twitter feed is part of that. I love having a flowing record of my restaurant visits. And recently, I tried to create a record of what popped into my head to cook over in the left margin, to fix the problem of forgetting about some neat ideas I have over my working day. Unfortunately, I find myself unable to consistently update the list in the way I can twitter. From now on, therefore, I'm just going to post what I want to cook in my twitter feed under the title "Stuff I want to cook" or SIWTC. Let's see hwo that works.
Anyway, I've been thinking about how to make it more useful. My twitter feed is part of that. I love having a flowing record of my restaurant visits. And recently, I tried to create a record of what popped into my head to cook over in the left margin, to fix the problem of forgetting about some neat ideas I have over my working day. Unfortunately, I find myself unable to consistently update the list in the way I can twitter. From now on, therefore, I'm just going to post what I want to cook in my twitter feed under the title "Stuff I want to cook" or SIWTC. Let's see hwo that works.
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