Le Comptoir

As I mentioned in my post below, probably the most important trend in restaurant cooking recently had been the "gastropub" and its descendants.  Good food, in other words, in relaxed surroundings. 

Le Comptoir is one of the first French manifestations of that trend, a casual bistro attached to a hotel that serves updated but rustic food of the highest sophistication.   No, no veloute, but a braised, de-boned, pig's foot rolled in a web of pork fat, breaded and fried, a truly shocking package of deep fatty flavor.  As part of a tasting menu, it would have been overwhelming, but as a main course, cut through with a tartly lemon salad, it was magnificent.  One of the greatest single dishes I've ever had the pleasure of eating.  But, of course, my fiancee's osso bucco, braised then roasted, tinged with tandoori spices, set in a yogurty sauce and served with fresh garden vegetables, wasn't far behind.  Unlike most fusions of this sort, the tandoori spices almost made the meal taste more french, somehow more authentic.  Cheap (3 euro) glasses of wine complete an exceptional package - the fact that the restaurant is relaxed, and comfortable, and open for continuous service all day and even throughout August is just the cherry on top.